虽然旅客在中国全球知名的美食城北京和上海,可以品尝到来自中国各地的美食佳肴,不过除了这些大都市,中国其他城市也有令人无比兴奋的美食等待着真正美食家的到来。
With this in mind and after three years of living in China and writing about Chinese food, I embarked on a six-month journey with my husband and two daughters.
考虑到这一点,在中国生活并且写了三年关于中国美食的文章之后,跟丈夫和两个女儿开始了6个月的寻求美食圣地之旅。
We loaded up a campervan and set out from Shanghai on July 1. We've since covered more than 20,000 kilometers and 21 provinces in our quest to see China's most remote and beautiful areas, and to taste the different regional foods along our way.
我们驾车从上海出发,那天是7月1日。到现在,我们已经行走了2万多公里,到达了21个省市,我们看到了中国边远且美丽的地区,一路上还品尝了好吃的食品。
Here are eight most amazing Chinese food cities I've come across so far. The list is in no particular order.
这里有8个我认为惊为天人的美食之地。
1. Chengdu, Sichuan Province
1. 四川省,成都市
Crowned as Asia's first UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2010, Chengdu is best known for its fiery hot pot and spicy dishes, which are characterized by the use of Sichuan pepper and are usually layered with salty, sour and sweet flavors.
2010年,成都被誉为亚洲第一个“联合国教科文组织的美食之城”。成都最有名的就是那火热的火锅和辛辣的菜肴,其主要特点是使用花椒,表面带有咸、酸和甜的口味。
There are also dishes that aren't spicy at all, such as beer-braised duck.
也有不辣的菜式,比如啤酒鸭。
The streets hold more than 100 varieties of street snacks, from savory jelly noodles to "dragon lifting a hand" (poached wontons drizzled in toasty chili oil, pepper corns and green onion).
街道上有着100多种小吃,既有酸辣粉,又有好吃的“龙抄手”(煮熟的馄饨,再浇上辣椒油,加上胡椒粒,葱花)
Chef Yu-Bo is a must-go. The high-end restaurant cooks sophisticated Sichuan food with awe-inspiring presentation
“喻家厨房”游客一定要去。这是一家高级餐厅,专做工序复杂的四川菜。
Hot pot is as ubiquitous in the city as the smell of chili. At Zigong Delicious Hotpot, the house specialty tiao shui wa (or "diving frog") is a cauldron of fiery chili to which vegetables, noodles or other meats can be added.
这个城市火锅无处不在,空气中也充满热辣辣的味道。在“自贡美味火锅”,这家的特色菜是“跳水蛙”,把辣椒,蔬菜,面条还有其他的肉类都添到一个大锅里。
For areal taste of Sichuan's signature pepper, hua jiao, spend a morning at the Chengdu Spice Market where the locals sell and buy it by the sack.
想要见识真正的四川辣椒,花椒,可以去成都香料市场逛一逛,当地人在那儿整麻袋地买卖。
Yu‘s Family Kitchen (喻家厨房), 43 Zhai Xiang Zi, Xia Tong RenLu, Chengdu,成都市青羊区下同仁路窄巷子43号, +86 28 8669 1975, open daily 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.,5:30 p.m.-9 p.m., booking required. Chef Yu Bo serves a 34-coursedegustation menu, which costs roughly RMB300 (US$47) per person for 7-8people or RMB1,000 per person for 1-2 people.
“喻家厨房”,成都市青羊区下同仁路窄巷子43号, +86 28 8669 1975,营业时间:11:30-21:00,必须预约。主厨喻波将为你准备34道菜肴,7-8人餐人均消费约300元人民币;1-2人餐人均消费1000元人民币。
Zigong Delicious Hotpot (自贡好吃客), 101 Kehua Bei Lu, Wuhou District, Chengdu成都武侯区科华北路101号, +86 28 8524 0535, open daily 10 a.m.-10 p.m.
“自贡好吃客”,成都武侯区科华北路101号, +86 28 8524 0535,营业时间:10:00-22:00
Chengdu Spice Market (五块石综合市场), 2 East Saiyuntai Dong Er Lu, Chengdu成都市赛云台东二路2号, open daily 8 a.m.-4.30 p.m.
“五块石综合市场”,成都市赛云台东二路2号,营业时间:8:00-16:30
2. Lanzhou, Gansu Province
2.甘肃省,兰州市
Synonymous in the minds of food-lovers with hand-pulled beef noodles, Lanzhou also has one of the liveliest street food night markets in China.
拉面是美食爱好者心目中美食的代名词,兰州就是一个拥有最热闹街头小吃夜市的城市。
Just west of the city center, the buzzing Zhengning Lu bazaar houses more than 100 street food stalls.
城市中心的最西边,“正宁路夜市”容纳了100多个街头食品摊位。
On offer is a broad selection of hot and cold dishes with emphasis on local Hui cuisine.
为当地回民冷热菜肴提供了多重选择。
Highlights include whole grilled fish seasoned with aromatic cumin and sesame paste (RMB25, US$4), sweet, hot bowls of nai zhou (milk rice with sultanas, peanuts, sesame seed and beaten egg, RMB 8) and flaky pastry rou bing stuffed with meat(RMB 2).
亮点包括用小茴香和芝麻酱研制的烤鱼(25元),牛奶鸡蛋醪糟(用牛奶、鸡蛋、醪糟一起煮,还放了葡萄干、银耳、芝麻,8元),带肉的香酥千层饼(2元)
No trip to Lanzhou is complete without feasting on noodles at Wumule Penhui, the 2012 winners of Lanzhou's annual pulled noodle competition. The halal restaurant makes noodles spicy enough to satisfy even the most hardened heat-seekers.
如果没吃过“吾穆勒蓬灰”牛肉面,就不能说来过兰州。“吾穆勒-蓬灰”荣获2012年度兰州拉面冠军。面条够辣,让最嗜辣的人也心满意足。
Zhengning Lu Night Market (兰州正宁路夜市), Zhengning Lu, Lanzhou. Nightly from 6 p.m. until late.
“兰州正宁路夜市”,兰州正宁路。每晚6点正式开市。
Wumule Penhui Beef Noodles, 2168Bei Huang He Zhong Lu, Lanzhou吾穆勒蓬灰牛肉面,七里河区北滨河西路1268号, +86 139 1989 3333, open daily 9 a.m.-9 p.m.
吾穆勒蓬灰牛肉面,七里河区北滨河西路1268号, +86 139 19893333,营业时间:9:00-21:00
3. Guangzhou, Guangdong Province
3.广东省,广州市
The birthplace of Cantonese food, Guangzhou is thought by many as the best place to eat in China. The city of 12 million has a passionate food culture, with equal excitement reserved for the opening of a hole-in-the-wall congee joint and a high-end restaurant.
粤菜的发源地,广州被认为是中国美食最多的地方。拥有1200万人口的城市充满激情的饮食文化,粥店和高档餐厅同样令人兴奋。
The local cuisine is characterized by fresh clean flavors, seafood, barbecued meat sand the wonderful tradition of yum cha, which is tea drinking accompanied by dumplings and small dishes.
本地菜的特点是新鲜,干净,主要菜肴包括海鲜,烧烤和传统早茶等,传统早茶配上饺子和各种小巧的碗碟小食,非常美妙。
Congee is the way locals love to start their day, and one of the most popular vendors is Ru Xuan Sha Guo Zhou. Here, one can get a bowl of signature seafood congee any hour of the day.
粥是当地人喜欢新一天开始的方式,最受欢迎的是“如轩砂锅粥”。在这里,任何时候都供应海鲜粥。
Yum chaaddicts are spoiled for choice but the extensive selections at both North Garden Restaurant(where shrimp dumplings are the specialty) and Bing Shengare exemplary.
“北园酒家”(以虾饺为特色)和“炳胜品味”这两家店是早茶痴迷者最多的选择。
Roast meats are Bing Sheng's most popular order -- their roast goose is marinated with five-spice, boiled, air-dried, then roasted by a flame oven to give a succulent crisp skin.
“炳胜品味”的招牌菜是烤肉——尤其是鹅肠叉烧菠萝包。鹅肠经过五香粉研制,煮熟,晾干,然后再用火炉烤熟。
For something more home style and removed from the madness of downtown, head toJi Cunfor steamed chicken and simple farmer-style dishes.
如果想远离喧闹的市中心,寻找家的感觉,可以去“鸡邨大饭店”,那儿有清蒸鸡还有简单的农家菜。
Ru Xuan Sha Guo Zhou Haizhu Branch (如轩砂锅粥), 562 Dongxiao Lu, Haizhu District, Guangzhou广州海珠区东晓南路562号, +86 20 8408 2969, 24 hours
“如轩砂锅粥”,广州海珠区东晓南路562号, +86 20 8408 2969,24小时营业。
North Garden Restaurant (北园酒家), 200-202 XiaoBei Lu, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou广州市越秀区小北路200-202号, +86 20 8356 3365, open daily 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.,5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m.
“北园酒家”,广州市越秀区小北路200-202号, +86 20 8356 3365,营业时间:11:00-14:30;5:30-22:30
Bing Sheng Pinwei (炳胜品味), 1-2/F Shipai Hotel, 168 EastTianhe Lu, Tianhe District, Guangzhou广州市天河区天河东路168号石牌酒店1-2楼, +86 20 8751 8682, open daily 11 a.m.-4 a.m.
“炳胜品味”,广州市天河区天河东路168号石牌酒店1-2楼, +86 20 8751 8682,营业时间:11:00-16:00
Ji Cun Restaurant (鸡邨大饭店), 550 Ying Bin Lu, Panyu District, Guangzhou广州番禺区市桥镇迎宾路550号; +86 20 8466 1010; 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m., open daily 5p.m.-10 p.m.
“鸡邨大饭店”,广州番禺区市桥镇迎宾路550号; +86 20 8466 1010,营业时间:10:30-14:00;17:00-22:00
4. Turpan, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region
4. 新疆维吾尔自治区,吐鲁番
Lying on the northern Silk Road en route to the trading hub of Kashgar, the laidback town of Turpan has the best Uyghur food in Xinjiang.
吐鲁番地处北方丝绸之路的贸易枢纽,是一个悠闲的小镇。吐鲁番维吾尔人拥有新疆最好的食物。
Dozens of open-air restaurants serve halal fare next to the main bazaar.
主要的集市旁边,有几十个露天餐厅。
Browse the stalls for central Asian specialties like lamb kawop and crispy rounds of nang bread, served alongside less well-known local favorites like banshi (mutton wontons served in a light tomato broth topped with black-eyed beans and cilantro) or lamb, which is marinated in saffron and yoghurt and cooked until it falls tenderly apart in the tonur oven.
摊位上有中亚特有的烤羊肉和馕,跟羊肉馄饨汤一起,羊肉馄饨用番茄汤煮熟,淋上黑豆和香菜。羊肉用藏红花和酸奶腌制煮熟。
Finish with a bowl of fresh set yoghurt.
最后,再来一碗酸奶就完美了。
The extremely dry county grows China’s sweetest grapes with the harvest spectacle taking place in early to mid-September.
极端干燥的天气使得每年9月中旬,这里能够盛产中国最甜的葡萄。
Turpan Bazaar (吐鲁番市场), Laocheng Lu, opposite the busstation, Turpan吐鲁番老城路, open daily 8 a.m.-8 p.m.
吐鲁番市场,位于吐鲁番老城路,营业时间:8:00-20:00
5. Datong, Shanxi Province
5.山西省,大同市
Shanxi is home to one of China's great eight cuisines, jin cai, characterized by the liberal use of vinegar, round breads and pastries (known as bing) and hundreds of varieties of noodles.
山西晋菜是中国八大菜系之一。晋菜的特点是随意使用醋这种调料,还有饼和数百个品种的面条。
Located in north of the province, industrial city Datong is an unassuming choice for dedicated Chinese foodies, with a burgeoning number of restaurants serving innovative and elegant jin dishes.
大同位于山西省北部,是一个工业城市,对于中国资深美食家来说是一个不起眼的选择。山西很多饭店都对晋菜进行了大量改良,使其更加精致。
Phoenix Court, housed in an intimate Ming Dynasty mansion since1518, serves the most refined jin cuisine in Datong.
凤临阁,明朝1815年即成名,提供最精致的晋菜美食。
Specialties are the delicate chrysanthemum shao mai (steamed dumplings favored by the Empress Cixi when she last visited).
特色菜包括百花烧卖(据说是慈禧太后驾临山西时很亲睐的一款蒸笼包)
Across town the 500-seatYongheFine Food City gives a new spin on traditional dishes, with must-tries like golden millet pudding studded with tiny orange sea buckthorn berries.
永和美食城可容纳500人同时就餐,创新的传统晋菜,必须要尝试的就是沙棘黄米饭。
The Phoenix Court Restaurant, Huayan Temple Street, Datong凤临阁,大同城区华严寺街, +86 352 2059 699, open daily11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m.
凤临阁,大同城区华严寺街,电话+86 352 2059 699,营业时间:11:30-14:00;17:30-21:00
Yonghe Fine Food City, 8 YingbinDong Lu, Datong永和美食城山西省大同迎宾东路8号, +86 352 5100 333,open daily 11:30a.m.-2 p.m., 6 p.m.- 9 p.m.
永和美食城山西省大同迎宾东路8号,电话+86 352 5100 333,营业时间:11:30-14:00;18:00-21:00
6. Qingdao, Shandong Province
6. 山东省,青岛市
This is one of China's best seafood cities.
青岛是中国最棒的海鲜美食之城。
There is no better accompaniment to the city’s refreshing brew, Tsingtao, than the local shrimp, clams, geo ducks, sea cucumbers and crayfish.
在青岛除了尝试当地的虾,蛤,象拔蚌,海参和龙虾外,就是搭配当地的清爽啤酒。
At Qingdao's Haidao restaurant, choose the catch of theday from the tanks, request a method of cooking (if unsure, the restaurant will help), sit down with a jug of beer then wait to see what turns up.
青岛的海岛渔村饭店,需要自己选择烹饪的方式(如果不确定,餐厅会帮助你选择),坐下来要一大壶啤酒,等待上菜。
The emphasis is on preserving the seafood's fresh taste so don't expect a lot of complex heavy sauces. Instead, enjoy gala (local clams cooked with garlic and a little chili), or wok-fired shrimp with scallions.
海鲜美食最强调的是保持海鲜的新鲜味道,所以不要放很多复杂的调料。相反,当地的蛤蜊加大蒜煮熟,再放少许的辣椒,或者葱爆龙虾,都是难得的美味。
For those who love to smell brine and hear the creak of rigging with your seafood, Xiao Gang Pier in northern Qingdao is lined with fishing boats selling directly from their decks.
对于那些喜欢闻闻海水咸味,喜欢听到索具声响的人,可以到青岛北部小港码头,那儿的渔民直接从他们的甲板上售卖现捞的海鲜。
Haidao Seafood Restaurant 40YunXiao Lu, Qingdao海岛渔村,青岛市云霄路40号; +86 532 8573 5588,open daily 10 a.m.-10p.m.
海岛渔村,青岛市云霄路40号;电话+86 532 8573 5588,营业时间:10:00-22:00
Qingdao Xiaogang Pier Seafood Market, Xiaogang Yi Lu, Shibei District, Qingdao青岛小港海鲜市场,青岛市北区小港一路, open daily 7 a.m.-4 p.m., best choice in the morning
青岛小港海鲜市场,青岛市北区小港一路,开市时间:7:00-16:00,最新鲜的海鲜都在早晨上市。
7. Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province
7. 浙江省,绍兴市
This ancient canal city is home to huangjiu, an amber-colored rice wine that's ubiquitous in Chinese cooking.
这个古老的运河城市盛产琥珀色的米酒和黄酒,这两种酒广泛用于中国的烹饪过程中。
Experience the history of 2,000 years of winemaking and taste aged wines at the Yellow Rice Wine Museum before enjoying a meal at the legendary Xianheng restaurant.
去咸亨酒店中餐厅享受美食之前,可先去绍兴黄酒博物馆体验2000多年历史的酿酒过程,品尝陈年老酒。
Open since 1894, the dining chain is known by almost every Chinese for its appearance in early 20th century novels by Chinese literati Lu Xun.
20世纪中国文学家鲁迅写的小说中出现的咸亨酒店自1894年开业,几乎为所有中国人所熟知。
Xianheng's delicacies include crispy-skinned chicken, smoked red dates in rice wine, beans flavored with fennel, and crispy bream in rice wine.
咸亨的特色菜包括香酥鸡,黄酒熏红枣,茴香豆,还有黄酒香酥鲷鱼。
Fried fermented tofu is also a local specialty, which is available all over town at small street stalls including one just outside Xian heng.
炸臭豆腐也是当地的特产,这是在全市小街上所有摊位上都能看到的美食。
Shaoxing Yellow Rice Wine Museum,557 Xiada Lu, Shaoxing
绍兴黄酒博物馆,下大路557号, +86 575 8517 6032, open daily 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m.
绍兴黄酒博物馆,下大路557号,联系电话:+86 575 8517 6032,营业时间:8:30-17:00
Xian Heng Restaurant, 179 Lu XunZhong Lu, Yuecheng District, Shaoxing咸亨酒店中餐厅,越城区鲁迅中路179号, +86 575 8511 6666, open daily 8 a.m.-8 p.m., reservation required
咸亨酒店中餐厅,越城区鲁迅中路179号,联系电话:+86 575 8511 6666,营业时间:8:00-20:00.需提前预定。
8. Dazhai, Guangxi Province
8. 广西省,大寨村
Not technically a city, but Dazhai is the best destination in China to enjoy fresh food as well as a stunning natural landscape on one trip.
大寨并不是真正意义上的城市,不过在这儿你能享受到中国最原始的美味,还能观赏到令人惊叹的自然景观。
The village is about three hours from Guilin by car and is at the base of the remote "Dragon's Backbone" rice terraces.
这个村庄距离桂林市约三小时车程,村庄远处是云龙梯田。
Here, the Yao minorities grow, make and forage everything they eat, including rice, tea, fern shoots, wild mushrooms and liquor brewed from wild berries.
在这里中国的少数民族瑶族人的居住地,他们自产自食大米、茶叶、蕨芽、野生蘑菇还有野生浆果酿造的酒。
Vegetables are plucked by farmers from the earth next to dining tables, which overlook spectacular centuries-old rice fields.
村民从菜地里拔出蔬菜,直接入锅做饭,在餐桌边就能俯瞰壮观的百年稻田。